HARLEY DAVIDSON BIG TWIN SPIGET MOUNT CARBURETOR INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 26-03-2012

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A. BEFORE INSTALLATION OF YOUR NEW ZENITH CARBURETOR, NSPECT THE RUBBER MANIFOLD SEAL FOR NICKS,CRACKS, OR DEBRIS. APPLYING A LIGHT FILM OF PETROLEUM BASED LUBRICANT AROUND THE INSIDE LIP OF THE RUBBER SEAL WILL ALLOW THE CARBURETOR TO SLIP INTO PLACE EASIER. B. BEFORE ACTUAL INSTALLATION OF UNIT INTO MANIFOLD, THROTTLE CABLES SHOULD BE HOOKED TO THETHROTTLEWHEEL.MAKESURETHATTHE PULL CABLE IS LOCATEDPROPERLY TO OPEN THE THROTTLE PLATE (IN SOME APPLICATIONS THROTTLE CABLE SLACK MAY NEED TO BE ADJUSTED FOR PROPER HOOKUP AND OPERATION) SEE FIG. #1 C. AFTER THROTTLE CABLES ARE PROPERLY HOOKED UP,UNITCAN BE INSERTED INTO MANIFOLD. MAKE SURE THAT UNIT IS FULLY SEATED. WITH CARBURETOR SEATED INTO MANIFOLD AND FUEL LINE HOOKED UP TO FUEL INLET, INSTALL CHOKE CABLE AND HOOK TO CHOKE LEVER. PLACE AIR INTAKE GASKET ON END OF CARBURETOR, NEXT PLACE INTAKE ADAPTOR OVER INTAKE GASKET. SEE FIG#2 ZENITH MOD.16P12 SPIGET MOUNT CARBURETOR -HARLEY DAVIDSON ™ BIG TWIN INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS FIG. # 1 FIG. # 2 D. WITH ADAPTOR IN PLACE, LOCATE THE STOCK AIR BOX OVER THE ADAPTOR, UTILIZING THE STOCK AIR BOX GASKET (THERESHOULDBENO GAPS BETWEEN ADAPTOR, AIRBOX OR CARBURETOR WHEN PROPERLY INSTALLED) STAND-OFF SPACERS PROVIDED ARE TOBEPLACEDBETWEENAIR BOX& ENGINE HEADS BEFORE INSTALLING THE VENT/RETAINING BOLTS. FOR EVALUATION ENGINES STOCK VENT BOLTS CAN BE USED WITH LARGERI.D. SPACER PROVIDED. SEE FIG#3 E. WITH AIR BOXSECURELY IN PLACE, INSTALL THE AIR FILTER COVER RETAINING BRACKET AND FILTER USING THE STOCKBOLTS, AND REPLACE AIR FILTER COVER AND SECURE WITH STOCK BOLT. SEE FIG#4 F. AFTER INSTALLATION IS COMPLETE AND FUEL FLOW HAS BEEN RE-ESTABLISHED, CHECK FOR ANY LEAKS BEFORE STARTING ENGINE. H. AFTER STARTING ENGINE, SOME ADJUSTMENTS OF IDLE AND MAIN JET MAYBE REQUIRED FOR PROPER OPERATION. AFTER ADJUSTMENTS HAVE BEEN MADE AND WITH ENGINEAT IDLE, TURN WHEEL FULLYTOLEFTANDRIGHT.ANYCHANGEIN IDLE SPEED INDICATES THROTTLE CABLES ARE TOO TIGHT AND MORE SLACK MUST BE PROVIDED.

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2001-2003 XV16 Fuel Pump and Carburetor Removal

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 31-12-2011

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Disconnect the carburetor fuel line hose at the fuel pump. •Disconnect the fuel pump wire coupler. •Remove the choke cable from fuel pump bracket. •Remove the upper engine mount, leaving the fuel pump attached to the mount. •Disconnect the TPS and carburetor wire couplers.       Disconnect the throttle cables, and then remove the carburetor. NOTE: The idle adjuster can be removed from its bracket without loosening the bracket screws. PAGE 3 of 12 HIDDEN 6mm SCREW 6mm BOLT UPPER ENGINE MOUNT/ FUEL PUMP CARBURETOR PAGE 4 of 12 Right-Hand Footrest Removal: •Disconnect and remove the brake light switch. •Remove the forward-most tie wrap around the brake hose and frame. •Remove the footrest assembly. NOTE: Leave the brake hose attached. Move the hose to the underside of the foot rest mount and support it as necessary so that it is out of the way Cylinder Head Oil Pipe Removal/ Installation: •Slightly loosen all three banjo bolts before removing them to prevent oil line deformation. NOTE: When loosening the upper banjo bolts, hold the line in place using a wrench at the flat surface on the fitting. Air Injection System (AIS) Removal: •Remove the electric starter motor. •Remove the regulator/rectifier assembly. Remove the AIS pipes from the cylinder head, but leave them attached to the AIS assembly. •Remove the three screws with 8mm heads, and then remove the AIS air filter from the right side. •Remove the three Phillips head screws holding    the AIS assembly on the frame. •Remove the AIS assembly from the left side. FOOTREST ASSEMBLY UPPER BANJO BOLT AIS AIR FILTER AIS ASSEMBLY
PAGE 5 of 12 Transfer Case Removal: •Remove the transfer case bracket first. Then remove the outer chrome cover, inner cover, and drive-sprocket nut. NOTE: There is a sealing washer between the inner case and the transfer case at the 8mm stud. Be sure to replace it during re-assembly. •Remove the two chrome oil lines between the engine and oil tank. NOTE: Retain the four O-rings for re-use. •Remove the drive pulley cover and remove the drive pulley nut. •Loosen the drive belt tension. •Remove the drive pulley, inner cover, collar, and O-ring. NOTE: The collar has a bevel on its inside diameter     for the O-ring facing inward and a bevel on the outside diameter facing the pulley. •Remove the drive and driven sprockets with chain as an assembly. •Remove the collar and O-ring. NOTE: Collar has a bevel on its inside diameter that faces inward for the O-ring. •Remove oil tank filler neck. •Remove the relay bracket on the right-hand side. NOTE: Leave the relays connected. Simply move them out of the way to allow room for transfer case removal. •Slide the transfer case out from the right side.

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YAMAHA YZF-R6R/ YZF-R6SR/ YZF-R6RC/ YZF-R6SRC SERVICE MANUAL

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 26-04-2011

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CABLE ROUTING SPEC A Pass the right handlebar switch lead inside the front brake hoses and over the throttle cables. B Install the throttle cables to the hook so that the pulling side of the throttle cables is routed downward. C Pass the clutch cable through the guide. D Plastic locking tie shall be positioned at 10 mm (0.39 in.) below from the upper bracket. E Clamp the left handlebar switch lead to the front fork with the plastic locking tie and cut the tip of the tie. Clamp it to the protector section Set in the coupler between the head light’s hollow section and the duct. J Install the relay to the rib of the head light. (Location for the left and right relays is alternative.) K To the wire harness L To the front turn signal light (right) M Set the sub wire harness in the joint. N Do not catch the sub wire harness when the duct is assembled. O To the front turn signal light (left) P Point the tip of the plastic locking tie to the front side of the vehicle. Cut the tip leaving 2 X 10 mm (0.08 X 0.39 in). Q Point the tip of the plastic locking tie under the under bracket and rear side of the vehicle. Cut the tip leaving 2 X 10 mm (0.08 X 0.39 in) A Pass the main switch lead under the left handlebar switch lead and then to the right side of the vehicle. B Pass the throttle stop cable by the left side of the side stand switch lead, oil level switch lead, A.C. magneto lead and then to the right side of the vehicle. C Pass the fuel tank drain hose and fuel tank breather hose inside of the reservoir tank breather hose, reservoir tank hose and wire harness and then route it by the out side of the starter motor lead. D Pass the coolant reservoir tank hose outside of the fuel tank drain hose and fuel tank breather hose. E Pass the fuel tank drain hose, fuel tank breather hose through the clamp of the coolant reservoir tank

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HARLEY DAVIDSON SPORTSTER HAND GRIPS INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 24-02-2011

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Remove and Install the Left Grip 1. See Figure 1. Using a T27 TORX®drive head, remove the two screws with flat washers securing the handlebar clamp (3) to the clutch lever bracket. Remove the clamp and position the clutch hand lever assembly away from the handlebar. 2. Using a T25 TORX®drive head, loosen but do not remove the upper and lower switch housing screws (1). 3. Remove the end cap from the existing left handlebar grip if so equipped. Remove the grip by carefully cutting it away from the handlebar using a sharp blade or knife. Do not lubricate left handlebar grip before installation. Lubricating grip can cause it to come off while riding, which could result in loss of control and death or serious injury. (00315a) NOTE Make sure that the handlebar surface and the inside of the grip are smooth, dry and thoroughly cleaned of all dirt or adhesive residue. 4. Position the new left grip (4) so the larger flange (5) is at the bottom. Push the grip fully onto the handlebar. 5. Fit the grooves (2) on the outboard side of the upper and lower switch housing over the flanges on the end of the grip, then loosely fasten the two screws. 6. Position the clutch hand lever assembly inboard of the switch housing assembly, engaging the tab on the lower switch housing in the groove at the bottom of the clutch lever bracket. 7. Align the holes in the handlebar clamp with those in the clutch lever bracket, and loosely fasten the two screws with flat washers. Adjust the switch housing and clutch hand control position for rider comfort. 8. Using a T27 TORX®drive head, tighten first the upper, then the lower handlebar clamp screws to 60-80 in-lbs (6.8-9.0 Nm). 9. Using a T25 TORX®drive head, tighten first the lower, then the upper switch housing screws to 35-45 in-lbs (4.0-5.1 Nm). Remove and Install the Right Grip 1. Refer to the RIGHTHANDLEBARSWITCH section of the service manual for removal of the switch housing assembly. This is necessary to access the throttle cables. 2. Refer to the THROTTLECONTROL section of the service manual to disconnect the throttle cables and remove the existing right grip/throttle sleeve assembly. After removal, make sure that the handlebar end is clean and smooth. 3. Follow instructions in the service manual to install the new right grip/throttle sleeve to the handlebar and connect the throttle cables. 4. Verify that the right grip/throttle sleeve rotates and returns freely and does not bind on the handlebar or switch housing.

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TRIUMPH AMERICA AND SPEEDMASTER HANDLEBAR RISERS INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Triumph) by admin on 29-01-2011

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1. Place a blanket folded several times over the fuel tank to help prevent any damage during the installation of the risers. Loosen the two 14mm riser mounting nuts located on the bottom side of the upper steering head. Loosen the four handlebar top clamp 6mm socket head screws. 2. It will help having a second person to hold the handlebars while you change the risers. Remove the four screws from the clamps and then remove the clamps. Pull the handlebars up off the risers, pull them back and rest them on top of the blanket. 3. Remove the nuts from the bottom of the risers and remove the risers carefully without allowing the risers to rotate, as this will scratch the clear coating on the upper steering head. Using the bolts, lock washers and washers supplied install the new risers making the bolts finger tight only. (NOTE; again, take care not to allow the risers to rotate as this will scratch the clear coating on the upper steering head). 4. Place the handlebars back up onto the new risers. Install the new top clamps supplied using the four M8 X 30mm socket head screws supplied. Set the height of the handlebars to the desired position, tighten the front bolts first and then the rear securely. (15-18 ft. lbs.) (There should be no gap between the riser and clamp at the front side) Tighten the two riser mounting bolts securely. (20-25 ft. lbs.). 5. Turn the handlebars all the way to the left and then right checking for any pulling or binding of the wires, hoses or cables. YOU MUST! Check to see that the throttle returns freely on its own when the handlebars are at full left and full right turn THIS STEP IS VERY IMPORTANT FOR OBVIOUS SAFETY REASONS! If you have a windshield installed it may be necessary to reroute the throttle cables, wires or hoses around the other side of the windshields mounting hardware to obtain adequate free play and free throttle return. You may also wish to remove the plastic clips or cable tie which secure the wiring to the handlebars and secure them to the brake hose and clutch cable (not the throttle cables) for a cleaner appearance

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Adjusting the Pekar K68 for Dnepr or Ural

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Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 11-11-2010

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1. Make sure the ignition timing is correct 2. Adjust the valves as necessary to ensure proper operation 3. Run the engine to warm it up a bit 4. Adjust the float setting. To do this, remove the carburetors (leave the throttle cables attached), remove the bowl and turn the carburetor upside down (fuel will spill). The float should look like this: Adjust as necessary by bending the float support (#37 in Figure 1). Reinstall Installation and idle adjustment 1. First you must adjust the idle. It is acceptable per the manual to adjust the idle by using the idle adjust screws (11). This usually involves screwing them then backing out 1 to 1.5 turns. Or you can adjust looking at the sliders 2. If installing the carburetors: a. Remove the cover (2) b. Reomve the slider (3) c. Place the throttle cable through the guide (18) with the spring (4) on the cable. d. Route the cable through the slide catch (6) e. Insert the slide assembly into the chamber and make sure it easily slides up and down. Direct the needle (8) into the opening of the diffuser (angled side visible). f. Screw assembly together and verify via throttle movement that slide moves freely. Attach fuel delivery lines to (12). 3. Using the idle set screw (11) raise the slider so the lower edge is 1-2 mm. 4. Assemble to engine using the proper gaskets (paper – felt – paper). 5. Using the locknut (26) adjust the free play of the throttle cable (2-3 mm) 6. Adjust the idle mixture screw – turn in completely then out 1 to 1.5 turns. * Starting using the K68′s (cold weather) 1. Verify fuel flow. Apply choke (pull 52 in Fig1). 2. Using the ticklers (13) allow fuel to enter the bowl until fuel drains from (14) 3. With the ignition off, kick 1 or 2 times 4. Turn ignition on, and as soon as engine is warmed up (maybe sooner) push choke mechanisms to open choke Idle Adjustment (engine running and warm) 1. Remove one of the spark plug caps, and with the cap shorted, adjust (11) to decrease RPM’s to a point of being minimally steady. 2. Adjust the mixture (15) out until RPM’s decrease. Turn in until RPM’s increase slightly. Then turn in screws ¼ to 1/3 revoultion. 3. Do the same for the second carburetor with the first spark plug cap shorted. 4. With both cylinders, adjust each idle (11) on each carburetor the same amount each until it’s at a steady, minimal RPM. Use small changes. (at this point you can use your airflow tool to check). 5. Sharply increase, then decrease throttle. Then engine must return to low RPMs smoothly. If the engine goes below limits, readjust (11) from step 4. Synchronization of the K68 Note: Rather than using the opposite cylinder shorted to test the pull of the live cylinder carburetor, you can use something like a Twinmax connected to the test ports (27 Fig 1). Or, if you have a model without these ports, use a Synchrometer (Appendix 2) held against the face of the carburetor. These tools merely show airflow passing through each carburetor (which is dependent on the position and wear on the slide). If using these tools, it’s not necessary to do the following steps. You wil want to use a throttle guide (Appendix 1), to show airflow at various throttle settings. Using the flow meter of your choice make sure each carburetor is the same at the various throttle settings. 1. Place the motorcycle on the center stand ensuring the rear wheel is suspended 2. Make sure you have large area to work with (safety issues here) 3. Shift into the highest gear with the engine running 4. Short one spark plug cap to the cylinder (using a nail or something in the fins) 5. Increase the speed to 40-50 km/hr 6. Fix the throttle using the throttle (maybe using a throttle stop screw under the throttle housing). 7. Reconnect other cylinder and using the opposite carburetor determine the speed which should be the same as the first. 8. Adjust the position of this slide to achieve the referenced speed using the locknut at the top of the carburetor.

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Mikuni HSR 42/ 45 Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Mikuni) by admin on 31-10-2010

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To install, remove the stock carb per Yamaha shop manual procedures. Remove stock throttle cables. Install Mikuni HSR carb into intake manifold and tighten manifold clamp. Install new HSR series throttle cables and adjust cable slack per Yamaha shop manual procedures. Hook fuel line to HSR carb and fasten clamp.* Start motorcycle and fine tune HSR carb for proper running per supplied Mikuni tuning manual. *NOTE: Mikuni HSR series carburetors are designed for gravity-feed fuel systems. You should bypass your stock fuel pump and directly feed your HSR carb right from the fuel petcock. We have noted, though, that you may not be able to get good fuel flow from your Road Star fuel tank in low-fuel situations. You may run your stock fuel pump with the HSR carb, but to do so requires the purchase and installation of an adjustable fuel pressure regulator (set at ½ to 1 lb. of pressure). These are available from most auto parts stores. The stock carb has 2 wires running to the lower rear of the float bowl , these were for a carb warmer, they are not used in this application. Unplug these wires at the main wire harness and retain with your stock carb. The Road Star ignition system uses data from the stock throttle position sensor (TPS) to manage your ignition timing. It is necessary to give the bike this information. You may do so by removing the TPS sensor from the stock carb, leaving it plugged into the main wire harness (the sensor must be fixed to a closed-throttle position), or you may locate the plug for the TPS on the main wire harness and test the leads – you will find one ground, one with .5V and one with 1.5V. Connect the 1.5V to the ground and this will give the bike the same information as stock fully closed throttle.

42MM MIKUNI FLATSLIDE CARBURETOR INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Mikuni) by admin on 31-10-2010

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To install, remove the stock carb per Yamaha shop manual procedures. Remove stock throttle cables. Install Mikuni HSR carb into intake manifold and tighten manifold clamp. Install new HSR series throttle cables and adjust cable slack per Yamaha shop manual procedures. Hook fuel line to HSR carb and fasten clamp.* Start motorcycle and fine tune HSR carb for proper running per supplied Mikuni tuning manual. *NOTE: Mikuni HSR series carburetors are designed for gravity-feed fuel systems. You should bypass your stock fuel pump and directly feed your HSR carb right from the fuel petcock. We have noted, though, that you may not be able to get good fuel flow from your Road Star fuel tank in low-fuel situations. You may run your stock fuel pump with the HSR carb, but to do so requires the purchase and installation of an adjustable fuel pressure regulator (set at 1/2 to 1 lb. of pressure). These are available from most auto parts stores. The stock carb has 2 wires running to the lower rear of the float bowl , these were for a carb warmer, they are not used in this application. Unplug these wires at the main wire harness and retain with your stock carb. The Road Star ignition system uses data from the stock throttle position sensor (TPS) to manage your ignition timing. It is necessary to give the bike this information. You may do so by removing the TPS sensor from the stock carb, leaving it plugged into the main wire harness (the sensor must be fixed to a closed-throttle position), or you may locate the plug for the TPS on the main wire harness and test the leads – you will find one ground, one with .5V and one with 1.5V. Connect the 1.5V to the ground and this will give the bike the same information as stock fully closed throttle. The output of the OEM fuel pump is too high and will cause fuel overflow in the HSR carb, resulting in a possible dangerous fire hazard

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Harley-Davidson S&S Super E and G Series Shorty Carburetors Installation and Jetting Instructions

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 24-10-2010

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throttle linkage with no cable modification. S&S Super E and G carb kits for 1936 to 1989 Big Twins contain a throttle cable guide (11-2339) designed for butterfly type throttle cables, and kits for 1990 and later Big Twins contain a taller throttle cable guide (11-2338) designed for CV type throttle cables. See Picture 2. The two throttle cable guides are interchangeable on the carburetor body, and can be changed very easily to update older carburetors or to accommodate custom throttle cables which are not stock for a particular year chassis. 1981 to Present Sportster Models Stock Sportster models from 1981 to 1987 have two cable throttle system designed for butterfly type carburetors. Sportsters from 1988 to present have a two cable throttle system designed for use with the stock constant velocity (CV) type carburetor. Since the taller #11-2338 cable guide bracket can not be used on a Sportster chassis due to insufficient frame clearance, throttle cables on Sportsters originally equipped with a CV type carburetor must be changed to butterfly style cables. S&S can supply the correct style throttle cables. See S&S Throttle Cable Application Chart. Picture 2 S&S THROTTLE CABLE APPLICATION CHART Length Total Housing Length Vinyl Housing Part Number Open Side Part Number Close Side Fitment 36″ 32″ #19-0430 #19-0431 For Buell with 7/8″ handlebars 36″ 32″ #19-0432 #19-0433 To ’95 ’81-’85 FX and FL; All ’81-’85 XL (Also pre-’81 w/2-cable throttle housing replaced.) For Buell with 1″ diameter handlebar 36″ 32″ #19-0436 #19-0437 ’96-Up 883-1200 XL 39″ 35″ #19-0434 #19-0435 To ’95 Softail (FXSTC, FXST, FLSTC, FLSTF) ’86-’94 FXR, ’93-’95 Dyna 39″ 35″ #19-0438 #19-0439 ’96-Up Softail (FXSTS, FXSTC, FLSTC, FLSTF) ’96-Up Dyna 42″ 38″ #19-0446 #19-0447 To ’95 custom application 42″ 38″ #19-0440 #19-0441 ’96-Up custom application 48″ 44″ #19-0462 #19-0463 To ’95 All FLT Models 48″ 44″ #19-0464 #19-0465 ’96-Up All FLT Models ” 1996 to Present Buells 1996 and 1997 Buells require special S&S butterfly style throttle cables for Buells, which are compatible with the stock 1996-1997 throttle assembly. 1998 and later carburated Buells require installation of stock 1996 – 97 throttle grip and the special S&S Buell style throttle cables when installing Super E or G carburetors. S&S Throttle Kits S&S throttle kits fit 1″ handlebars and can be used on most chassis. (An adapter sleeve is available for use with earlier, 7 ⁄ 8 ” OEM handlebars originally equipped with internal throttle cable.) Barrel fittings on S&S cables readily “plug in” to S&S Super E, G, and stock H-D 1981-’90 butterfly type carb throttle linkage. Kits include one opening and one closing side cable, left and right grips, and handlebar clamps. Kits with 36″, 39″, 42″, or 48″ length cables are available. Length specified refers to overall cable length. Vinyl covered outer housing is 4″ shorter than overall length

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