Honda GL1500 EZ Steer Installation Manual

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 16-02-2011

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1. Use the Parts Checklist included with your hardware to verify the contents of the box 2. Remove the front wheel, fender, forks and triple clamps as shown in the Honda Shop Manual. Torque head bearings to 30 ft-lb. 3. Replace the stock fork caps using new seals with the extended caps provided. If you do not already have Progressive fork springs we suggest they be installed for the best results. 4. Install the new triple clamps. Remember to grease the new lower steering bearing. 5. Install the forks into the new triple clamps. Be sure to torque all pinch bolts to factory specifications. Do not over tighten as this can cause undue stress on the new triple clamps. 6. Check the steering lock action by turning the forks fully in both directions. Because of manufacturing tolerances in the fairing mounting bracket the fork tubes sometimes make contact with it at full lock. Usually this can be overcome by giving the handlebar a slight push while engaging the lock. 7. Because the fork tubes are now longer than stock, DO NOT use the clamps that held the brake lines to the stock lower triple clamp. Some models have a temperature sensor mounted under the fairing that may interfere with the plastic cable guide. If interference is noted trim the guide as required. 8. Install the fender and wheel assembly. Be sure the brake hoses are routed to allow full travel of the forks. It is necessary to trim the two upper ears off of the fender upper cover to prevent contact with the fairing during turns. 9. If you have questions please call our EZ-Steer Maintenance The bearings in your EZ-Steer rake kit are normal wear items, not subject to replacement under Champion’s one year Limited Warranty for the product. Failure to follow your motorcycle manufacturer’s recommendations for periodic OEM triple-tree maintenance will accelerate the wear on these bearings. Checking/adjustment of the steering stem nut torque, with the front end lifted, in accordance with your motorcycle manufacturer’s recommendations, is key to reliable bearing service

BMW F650GS Single Shock Supplement

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Filed Under (BMW) by admin on 14-02-2011

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Mount the shock & adjuster as you would your stock shock & adjuster per your authorized shop manual (with the rebound adjustment at the bottom) noting the following: n As you mount the shock, feed the Remote Adjustable Pre-Load adjuster through the same path as the stock line was routed to the same location. n Do not loosen or attempt to rotate the line between the shock and the adjuster. n Make sure the shock rebound adjustment is facing the right side of the motorcycle and the pressure valve is facing forward. n Tighten shock bolts to the proper torque specifications (refer to your manual). n Mount the adjuster to the supplied mounting bracket using the supplied M6-1.0X8mm SHCS fasteners and torque them to 80-90 in/lbs (9-10 N-m) as in figure 3. Then mount the bracket and adjuster to the bike in the same location as the stock preload adjuster/bracket using the stock bolts as shown in figure 4. Check banjo-bolt to cylinder clearance and adjust if necessary via tolerances in mounting bracket holes. n Using the supplied zip-ties, secure the hydraulic line away from any moving parts or heat sources. To adjust the ride height, simply turn the adjuster knob clockwise to increase the height and counterclockwise to reduce it. See main instructions for procedure of achieving optimum ride height.

TRIUMPH ROCKET III HEEL / TOE SHIFTER INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Triumph) by admin on 29-01-2011

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1. Loosen the 10mm nuts at the ends of the shifter linkage rod (notice one end is a left hand thread). Remove the 10mm nut from the shifter arm & disengage the linkage. Remove the shifter pivot bolt using a 8mm hex key wrench. Remove the washer on the threaded side of the shifter pivot bolt. 2. Place one of the wave washers supplied onto the pivot bolt. Place a small amount of grease on the shifter pivot bolt shank and the Heel / Toe shifter pivot hole, insert the pivot bolt into the pivot hole of the toe heel shifter. Use a drop of blue loctite on the shifter pivot bolt threads and install the Heel / Toe shifter, tighten the pivot bolt securely. Check to see that the shifter pivots freely. If the side play is excessive (this is a result of variances in manufacturing tolerances of the stock and supplied components) remove the pivot bolt and install the second wave washer supplied. 3. Unscrew the linkage rod and replace it with the longer rod supplied (NOTE the rod has a left hand thread on one end and right hand threads on the other). Insert the shifter linkage stud into the desired hole in the new shifter being sure the flats on the stud engage the slot on the backside of the bolthole. Install the nut and finger-tighten only at this time. 4. While seated on the motorcycle first find the height setting you prefer for the toe shifter. Using one of the three boltholes for the linkage can set this. You can also gain some adjustment by exposing more or less threads of the new longer shifter linkage rod; however be sue that you have a minimum of 4-5 threads still engaged in the linkage ends. After setting the height, tighten all three 10mm nuts (the two at the ends of the linkage rod and the one which attaches the linkage to the toe/heel shifter) securely. After you have the toe shifter adjusted to your liking you can select the heel shifter height by moving the button head cap screw that secures the toe shifter to the heel shifter (Using a 5/32″ hex key wrench) next to the 10mm linkage nut to any of its three holes

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Yamaha Road Star Engine Guard Installation Manual

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 07-11-2010

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1. Protect the rear portion of the front fender with a towel or other thick, soft cloth. 2. Remove the OEM engine guards if they have been installed on the motorcycle. Or, if OEM engine guards are not present, Remove the two lower engine mount bolts. These bolts are located on the inside of the right and left frame rails, and will be replaced with the longer 10mm bolts included with your new engine guard. 3. Position the engine guard so that the lower brackets point towards the rear of the motorcycle, and slide the engine guard into the space between the front wheel and the frame. 4. Raise the guard until the upper V” mount is located between the frame rails. Note: Your new Barons engine guard is equipped with a unique upper V” mount clamp. This clamp becomes a cradle for the upper frame supports when it is inserted between the frame rails. 5. Rotate the engine guard until the lower mounting brackets are aligned with the lower engine mount holes. Due to production line tolerances in both the motorcycle and the engine guard, the mounting brackets may be too wide or too narrow for the frame. If this is the case, remove the guard from the motorcycle. Place the guard on a flat, firm surface. Insert a towel or other protective material between the guard and the surface. Using a rubber mallet or a block of wood and a hammer, tap the lower brackets until they are correctly spaced. 6. Insert the new 10mm bolts and washers, and finger tighten only. 7. Tighten each 3/8″ bolt in the upper clamp evenly by using a 9/16″ socket or a wrench. Snug down each bolt until it draws the front of the upper clamp into contact with the upper frame supports, then adjust these bolts accordingly to achieve equal spacing between each floorboard and the lower engine guard rail. 8. Tighten the jam nuts against the washers to lock each bolt in place. CAUTION! It is critical that you do not over-tighten these bolts. Tighten all remaining nuts and bolts securely. If necessary, slightly loosen rear brake line banjo bolt and rotate banjo fitting for clearance with engine guard. Tighten banjo bolt and check brake for proper operation. You must re-tighten all four of the engine guard mounting bolts after 100 miles of riding! Care & Cleaning: Engine guards take the full brunt of the worst of what the weather in your area has to offer, making it critical that proper and complete cleaning take place on a weekly basis, or corrosion will occur which is not covered by warranty! Proper cleaning procedure would be to use a product like Simple Green, LOC, Salt-Away or similar. Mix a strong batch and apply it liberally with a soft towel or soft nylon brush to the entire

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2000-2002 Aprilia Mille INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Aprilia) by admin on 26-10-2010

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1) It is a good idea to use Blue Loc-tite on all bolts you are about to remove and replace. 2) This kit has extremely close tolerances and in order for all the parts to clear the triple clamp and gas tank, you will probably have to loosen and align most of the associated bolts. We have tried very hard to make this as compact as possible but we know the factory tolerances vary from bike to bike. Be patient, the results are worth it. 3) Remove both front fuel-tank retaining bolts. You will use the longer bolts provided in our kit. 4) Install the frame bracket (part #22-6036-03) that mounts to your front (2) tank bolts holes. The frame bracket sits on top of the stock tank spacers. The frame bracket is offset. This means it fits correctly only one way, with the offset toward the triple clamp, part numbers facing forward, (see photo below). Due to the tight clearances on this model you’ll want to be sure the frame bracket does not make contact with the tank itself. It’s easier to start the tank bolts if you lift up on the tank slightly, while starting the new bolts into their threaded hole. Tighten the new tank bolts to 6 ft lbs. and use Loc-tite. 5) Remove the large 14mm Allen nut and washer that holds your triple clamp on. You will not re-use either one. 6) Install the new “Triple clamp damper mount” Part # 22-2925-00 into the recess area where the stock Allen head bolt was sitting. There is a machined recess or built-in-washer on the bottom of our mount to match the recess on your triple clamp. The 2 nubs that hang down, should match the rear contour of your triple clamp precisely. Use loc-tite and retighten the new 14mm Allen nut provided to your factory torque specs, usually a minimum of 35 ft lbs. and maximum of 85 ft. lbs. Do not use the stock washer that was under the original 14mm nut. 7) Grease the tower pin and drop it in the tower pin hole portion of the frame bracket. The tower pin is designed to “float” and requires no retaining devices. Keep the tower pin lightly greased! It should not touch the gas tank on the bottom side. 8) Install the stabilizer using the (2) 6×20 Allens with the slot in the link arm matching the tower pin. 9) Since the tank is rubber mounted at the rear, you want to be sure it won’t push forward and rub the frame bracket. After riding the first time, be sure the tank has not shoved forward by your body making contact with it. Remember, under heavy braking your entire body weight is pushing the tank forward. Until you have verified sufficient clearance between the tank and the tower pin, it might be smart to put something between the tank and tower pin to protect the tank. 10) Read your damper manual for initial settings on the controls. The damper is infinitely adjustable and totally up to the user to find their preference. Start with softer (counter clockwise) settings. Normally where we set the unit, at 8 clicks out on the base valve, is a good starting point.

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