Harley-Davidson Vacuum Operated Switch Kit Installation MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 24-03-2012

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1. Turn off the ignition switch and disconnect the battery ground cable before proceeding. 2. For applications with Harley-Davidson OE ignition modules, simply replace the existing OE VOES switch with the new Twin Tec switch. Use the supplied crimp terminals to connect the new switch in place of the old switch. The wiring is not polarity sensitive and the two wires from the new switch can be interchanged. 3. For Twin Tec ignitions, refer to the installation instructions supplied with the ignition module for VOES switch hookup. Use the supplied crimp terminals to connect the new switch. The wiring is not polarity sensitive and the two wires from the new switch can be interchanged. 4. Reconnect the battery ground cable when you have completed the installation

Yamaha TDM900 Installing and removal the Vacuum Actuator

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 28-12-2011

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Attach the cable adjuster to the bracket. Position the adjuster so that it is screwed all the way in. Do not tighten the lock nuts on the adjuster yet. • Route the new ‘carburettor’ cable around and out the RHS of the bike under the frame rail as shown in the following photos. Installing the Vacuum Actuator • Mount the actuator on the RHS fairing support using the bracket provided and two bolts, nuts and flat washers. The mounting bracket fits on the inside face of the fairing bracket. The small plate fits on the outside and clamps the actuator to the faring frame.

Installation Instructions for TRD’s 3.4-liter V6 Supercharger Kit 1997-2000 Tacoma,1997-1998 T-100, 1996-2000 4Runner

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Filed Under (Toyota Manuals) by admin on 28-05-2011

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begin, TRD recommends you thoroughly Before you and engine compartment.thatyou don’t, grease clean the engine
If buildup  on parts could become dislodged during the procedure and fall into the engine.
• Make sure the engine has cooled fully before you begin. suggest you draw diagrams of your
• To help you later, we you disconnect anything. You can doengine’s cable routing before the same

for the vacuum hoses; however, some of the vacuum connections on your stock manifold may not be the same as those on the supercharger. To ensure the proper hose connections, refer to the diagrams in the back of this manual.
TRD supercharger has been designed to reuse most of • Thestock nuts and bolts.kitTherefore, as you remove them, keep the  them with their components or label them for location. This will assure a faster, easier installation.
B. Removal of Stock Intake Manifold (figure 1)
1. Disconnect the battery ground cable.
2. With tape or a permanent marker, mark the forward edge of the power steering and the air conditioning compressor drive belts (figure 2). This will ensure that the belts will be returned to their original positions and that they will rotate in the same direction. If you reverse the direction of rotation, it may cause the belts to fray.

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HARLEY DAVIDSON INNER FAIRING TRIM PACKAGE KIT INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 09-02-2011

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INSTALLATION Install Small Instrument Bezel Covers 1. See Figure 1. Cut tape (1) into six equal pieces. 2. Remove paper liner from one side of tape and apply three pieces tape (spaced equally) to the instrument bezel (2). Press firmly. 3. Remove the adhesive backing from the back of the double- sided tape. 4. Position instrument bezel cover (3) over gauge and press firmly into place. 5. Repeat for remaining gauges. Install Large Instrument Bezel Covers 1. See Figure 1. Cut tape (4) into sixteen equal pieces. Use eight pieces for each bezel cover. 2. Repeat Steps 2 through 5 under “Install Small Instrument Bezel Covers”. 4 5 2 1 6 3 is05418 1. Adhesive tape, double-sided (2) (cut into three pieces) 2. Instrument bezel 3. Chrome bezel cover, small (4) 4. Adhesive tape, double-sided (2) (cut into eight pieces) 5. Instrument bezel 6. Chrome bezel cover, large (2) Figure 1. Install Instrument Bezels Install Front Speaker Trim 1. Gently brush or vacuum each speaker grille to remove any dust or dirt particles. 2. Cut eight 1-inch strips of narrow masking tape. 3. Without removing the adhesive backing, position the trim rings against the speaker grille

AUTOMOTIVE BRAKE BLEEDING KIT MODEL MV8020 USER'S MANUAL

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Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 25-11-2010

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MOTORCYCLE BLEEDING PROCEDURE Before bleeding the system, ensure that: 1) The brake caliper pistons are free to move within the calipers. 2) The master cylinder piston is free to return to the end of its stroke, and 3) Inspect the line to ensure that all fittings are tight. FRONT BRAKE 1) Pump brake lever to seat caliper pads against rotor. 2) Cover gas tank with plastic protective sheet if using DOT 3 fluid (not necessary if using DOT 5 fluid). 3) Remove master cylinder reservoir cap and fill reservoir. 4) Select the appropriate adapter(s). The L-shaped universal adapters should fit snugly over the brake bleeding fitting in order to seal properly. The tapered adapters fit inside the thru-hole of fitting and will generally seal well when inserted tightly with a pressing and twisting motion. Attach adapter to reservoir hose. 5) Pump several times to create vacuum. Crack bleeder valve with box wrench, extracting fluid into reservoir. (Stop and add fluid when master cylinder begins to get low. Do not allow air to enter line.). At this point, all air should be out of system and line full of fluid. (Note: if air is entering the pump hose from around bleeder fitting, remove bleeder fitting and apply Teflon tape to threaded portion of bleeder screw only. This will prevent air seepage around threads of bleeder screw.) 6) While maintaining vacuum on the pump line, tighten bleeder fitting. 7) Top off reservoir and reinstall cover. Check brake by pumping lever several times. Pedal should have a positive, solid feel. If not, repeat bleeding process as more air may have entered the system. Inspect line to ensure all fittings are tight. If brake still feels slack, consult a service technician.

Yamaha Road Star NEEDLE/ JET KIT INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 10-11-2010

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1. Remove the vacuum slide from the carburetor. 2. Remove the OEM needle, spacer and washers, noting order of assembly. 3. Counting from the top to the bottom, install the new Baron needle clip on groove #4 for 04-07 models and on groove #5 for 99-03 models of the replacement. NOTE: Baron adjustable needle – The top is the blunt end of the needle. 4. Reinstall the OEM spacer and washers as shown in this diagram. 5. Reinstall the vacuum slide along with the diaphragm spring. 6. Reattach the diaphragm cover back and tighten screws. NOTE: Verify that the slide maintains its full range of movement. 7. Drain the fuel from the float bowl and remove the bowl cover. 8. Remove the OEM main jet and replace it with a Barons genuine Mikuni main jet. Install the correct main jet as indicated in JET SELECTION area above on this page. Our install guides provide a basic outline on the proper installation of our products. Further tuning and/or fitment may be required. Page: 2 BA-2420RD NEEDLE/JET KIT – Yamaha Road Star (99-07) 9. Thoroughly clean the inside of the float bowl prior to reinstalling it. 10. Reassemble the carburetor by reversing the order of step #1 through step #10. Use the new cap head allen screws in place of the OEM phillips head screws. 11. Locate the fuel mixture screw – it will either be a screw head or a brass plug. If it is a screw head, skip to step #11c. 11c. If you see a brass plug with a small hole in the center, proceed as follows: With the drill bit, carefully and slowly drill through the fuel mixture plug. CAUTION: The fuel mixture screw is located directly beneath this plug. Be prepared to stop the drill and remove the bit the instant you break through the plug. Insert the self-tapping sheet metal screw into the drilled hole and remove the plug. With air/fuel screw now accessible, use a flat blade screwdriver to turn the screw clockwise until it seats, then carefully turn it counter-clockwise 3 1/2 turns. Refer to step #16 for assistance in fine tuning the setting of the air/fuel adjustment screw. 12. Reinstall the carburetor. We strongly suggest that you attach the throttle cables prior to mounting to intake manifold. 13. Reconnect the fuel line, ensuring the clamp is firmly in place. 14. Reinstall all vent hoses and electrical connectors that were previously removed, checking for any obstructions or blockage. 15. Reinstall the OEM air filter assembly or, if you are installing our Big Air Kit (BAK), follow the instructions that accompany that kit, then continue with next step. NOTES: When the BAK is installed, the vent hose that terminated on the rear of the OEM airbox can be relocated in any safe position that does not kink or pinch it. It is important to verify proper throttle operation before starting the engine.

Audiovox CCS-100 Cruise Control Installation Manual

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Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 10-11-2010

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You can see where I drilled the holes to mount the bracket. (2566, 2567) You’ll have to bend the bracket to fit and reposition it on the servo (the extra holes are already there on the servo to move the bracket). Just bend it until it lays flat on the back of the plastic box. You’ll have to unbolt the two bolts that hold the plastic box in place to work on it. I made the hole in the front of the box (where the servo cable goes through) way too large, but I wasn’t sure what angle it would be at when I installed it, so I kept cutting it bigger so the cable wouldn’t be bent too sharp. (2565) I ran the servo cable along the top frame under the tank, around the front cylinder and into a bracket (that came with the unit) that I cut off to fit. I attached the bracket to the screw on the air cleaner, but you really have to do a lot of grinding on the bracket to get it to fit the area so that it will lay flat and tighten up with the screw. You’ll see what I mean when you put a piece of metal or bracket up to that hole. It’s not flat, so I used a moto-tool to cut slots in the bracket and a grinder to grind it down smaller so that it would fit in that area. I used the long “cable” and no bead chain to connect to the throttle. (2560) First take off your throttle grip and release the “pull” cable (the front one) so you can remove it from the carb lever. Then put the cable end over the throttle cable end and re-insert it, then re-assemble your throttle. Hook the ball on the end of the long cable (there are two or three cables in the kit, use the long one) to one of the bead chain connectors (you have to spread it first) and then close it back up. (2563) Spread the other end and hook it to the servo cable and then using your pliers, close it again. Ok, now you have the servo all hooked up. You’ll need a vacuum canister, which you can buy at JC Whitney, or make one from PCV pipe (2″) with caps. (2554, 2555) Drill two 5/16″ holes in the pipe, tap(1/8″) them and insert brass 3/16″ nipples for your vacuum hose. (2568) Hook the black of the Napa one-way vacuum check valve end up to your engine vacuum and the blue end to your canister. I disconnected the emissions canister from the cylinder number one intake. I then uncapped the vacuum tap on the number two cylinder intake and connected the two together with a “T” (from the kit) and the connected the remaining end of the “T” to the black end of the check valve. (2556) The other nipple on your canister gets connected to the servo (drill a whole in the bottom of the black box to run it in). Wiring: Drill a hole in the top of the black box to run the wiring harness out. I’d suggest you take a roll of electrical tape and tape it up first. Leave the black ground wire out of the tape and also leave the purple and red wires out of the taped area about 8″ or 10″ up from the servo. You’ll want them near the servo so you can cross them over the bike to the right side and hook the black wire directly to the negative side of the battery. The purple wire connects to the yellow brake light wire and the red wire connects to the blue wire, which is hot when the key is on. The rest of the harness you can run along the left side of the frame, using wire tires to tie it off. Leave the blue wire out of the harness as you get to the front cylinder (so you can hook it to the front coil), or you could use the back cylinder coil. You can make a little “Y” harness out of spade connectors (female on one end, and male on the other two ends) to join the blue wire to the coil. Use the gray wire on the front coil or the orange wire on the rear coil

Aprilia Futura 2003 Fitting Instructions.

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Filed Under (Aprilia) by admin on 26-10-2010

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vacuum r elbow. connection with tee piece in place, and dampe Route tubing as shown. We supply a piece of cottoiler tubing The black bracket has to be tilted back to Backing plate is available free of charge viton tubing, to protect our S around the exhaust pipe. It’s selected for its high temperature and oil/petrol resistance. allow light to shine on the number plate. from Scottoiler. This bracket has been rotated, mudguard re-drilled and remounted to ensure number plate illuminated.

Carbureted vs. Fuel Injected Systems

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Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 25-10-2010

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fuel injection (FI) systems have been around since the 1950′s and became widely used in cars during the 80′s. By the 1990′s all cars sold in the United States were equipped with FI systems, and though motorcycle manufacturers have included FI systems with some models as early as 1982, it isn’t until recently that the industry has seen wide spread use of FI. Since a lot of people come into my shop with questions about FI, I thought I would point out some of the differences between FI and carbureted systems as well as the benefits and disadvantages of both. A carbureted system is a mechanical system using air pressure to control the flow of fuel through the system. There are three basic parts in a carburetor, the throttle valve, the venturi and the float bowl. The throttle valve controls the amount of air that flows into the throat of the carburetor also known as the venturi which is simply a tapered hole through the carburetor body. As the venturi narrows, air moving through it is forced to speed up creating low pressure inside the carburetor. In a siphoning effect as the air tries to equalize the pressure, fuel is drawn in from the float bowl mixing with the air before entering the engine. The wider open the throttle valve, the more air will flow, drawing more fuel. A number of circuits are built into the carburetor in order to control the amount of air/fuel being drawn into the engine. In this context a circuit refers to a fuel passageway as opposed to an electrical circuit. In fact, nothing electrical controls fuel delivery in a carbureted system, it is all based on fluid flow, vacuum and hydraulics. The different circuits represent various throttle positions such as idle, partially open and fully open, and each of these circuits can be tuned to modify the efficiency of fuel delivery to the system. Fuel injection (FI) systems, on the other hand, rely on an electronic fuel pump to deliver fuel. The fuel pump delivers fuel at around 50psi as opposed to carbureted systems at normal atmospheric pressure of about 15psi. When the fuel reaches the injectors, the higher pressure allows much finer atomization (creating mist) of the fuel. The injectors then spray the atomized fuel into the intake manifold in a uniform conical pattern. The uniform pattern and fine atomization of the fuel spray increase the efficiency in which it is burned