Honda GL1000 Timing Belts Removal / Installation Manual

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 08-04-2011

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Turn engine as described above until the T-1 mark aligns with engine block marks (it looks a little ‘out’ on the photo, it’s the angle). AND (this is important) the pulley marks align with the marks on the engine cover like here on LEFT side (seen from sitting on bike … remember). and RIGHT side. Mark this position on the central pulley and engine block. Now release the tensioner bolts. (*) And remove the belt. (*) (*) When you do that the right pulley (photo-left) will ‘wander/turn’ out of position when you remove the belt, as it is ‘riding’ on cam ‘slope’ (which is under the influence of the valve springs). Don’t worry. One thing you can do to calm your nerves and keep it in position: put the new belt loosely over the pulley and holding the pulley in the CORRECT POSITION (marks aligned) ‘strip’ a spanner to the frame. Do not use the spanner to turn the pulley. Use your hands … then ‘lock’ it with the spanner. (Make absolutely sure you do not turn (release/loosen) the bolt). And, here’s a nifty trick posted by Mooseheadm5 in another thread: “..one thing that made it super easy (and 3 reduced the anxiety level quite a bit) was that I loosened the tappet adjusters all the way [...snip...] you do not have to fight the valve springs much, plus the cams do not want to snap back or forward so you do not necessarily need to use Octane’s zip-tied wrench trick.” – Thanks, Moosehead . Release left tensioner bolts . Remove belt. Put on new belt. Check the tensioners or ‘tension rollers’. You may think they are ‘fine’: they ‘roll’ and don’t make funny sounds? You won’t know until you’ve had a set of new rollers in your hands. They should be real ‘tight’ as a set of new roller bearings … which I think they are, in fact. If they appear ‘dry’ or make any sounds; renew them and get rid of that high pitched whining sound associated with ‘dry’ rollers. This is how they go on left side (remember…photo-right). And the spring gets attached . … Pulleys in correct position (crank pulley and cam pulley) . … Left belt tight at the bottom … Tension roller loosely attached (let the spring do the tension). (On photo it is not on yet … ooops.

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URAL motorcycles Installation and Removal Manual

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Filed Under (Ural) by admin on 02-11-2010

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The Repair Manual provides information on setup, tune-ups, servicing, diagnosing problems, removing and installing components (otherwise referred to as “assembly units”), overhauling components, adjusting repaired components, and testing the repaired motorcycle. The increasing competition in the motorcycle market requires, more than ever, careful attending to the customer in order to assure the owner satisfaction with one’s motorcycle and to maintain customer confidence in the dealer and factory. It is important to repair the client’s vehicles correctly in a well organized and clean repair shop equipped with all necessary tools and parts. In such an environment, and having been trained at the technical training course, a repair technician will prove to be competent and efficient. Repairs on the engine and transmission especially, should be carried out in dust-free places. During breaks, disassembled transmissions and openings leading to the inner engine parts or lubrication holes should be protected from dust by clean rags. Valves, valve springs, spring retainers, rockers, pushrods, tappets, pistons, connecting rods and bearings should be put away in suitable boxes. Disassembled parts have to be cleaned and thoroughly checked for the following: Sliding and rolling surfaces for wear and freedom from scoring marks, all metal parts, particularly castings, tempered parts and welded joints as well for cracks and corrosion, and rubber parts for suitableness. As a rule, all gaskets and tab washers are to replaced upon reassembling. When disassembling parts, attention has to be paid to the arrangement of lock-washers on screws and nuts, spacing washers, gaskets, rubber mounts and so on. If necessary, mark mating parts in order to guarantee correct assembly.

Harley-Davidson Valves, Guides And Seats Installation

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 31-10-2010

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1: Clean carbon from old guide O.D. before removal. 2: Guide to head press fit .0015″ / .002″ (head smaller than guide). 3: Heat head to approximately 200° – 250° F. 4: Install the guide at room temperature (Head hot & Guide at room temperature). 5: Let head cool to room temperature before final sizing of the bore. 6: Determine desired clearance valve to guide. Recommended clearance Shovel Head with cast iron guides Intake .001″ – .0015″ Exhaust .0015″ – .002″ (Ampco-45 add .001″) 7: Select the correct plug gage by adding the valve stem diameter and clearance desired for the finish diameter. 8: Select a plug gage .0005″ under finish size for the other end of the handle. 9: Finish hone the bore to size, check the size as you hone with the -.0005″ under size pin gage, finish hone to size with the finish plug gage pin. 10: Cut or Grind the seats, lap the valves to seats and check valve seat concentricity before assembling valve springs. 11: Use a good assembly lube, S’NS works great. 12: Use valve stem seals. Factory OE seals will stay tight with guide top size +.005″ to -.015″ from published size. 13: After the head is assembled and still on the bench check for any leakage valve to seat

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