KTM Front Wheel Bearing Installation Manuals

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Filed Under (KTM) by admin on 31-01-2012

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1 Place motorcycle on a stand so that the front wheel is off the ground. 2 Using a 27mm socket remove the front axle nut. Using a 10mm socket, loosen the four front axle pinch bolts. Slide front axle out of forks and remove front wheel. 3 Insert a long punch (with a good square edge) into the center of the aluminum wheel bearing spacers and push up against the inner edge of the spacer on the opposite side of the wheel (Fig. 1). Using a hammer, tap the punch around the entire circumference of the spacer until it completely slides out of the bearing (Fig. 2). Turn the wheel over and remove the other spacer in the same way. 4 Use a long screwdriver or narrow pry bar and pry the seals out of each side of the wheel (Fig. 3). 5 Using snap ring pliers, remove the bearing retaining snap ring from the brake rotor side of the wheel. (Fig. 4) NOTE: 2003 – CURRENT MODELS USING # 16-092 KIT DO NOT USE THIS SNAP RING. 6 Insert a long punch (with a good square edge) into the center of the wheel bearing, and push up against the inner edge of the bearing on the opposite side of the wheel. Using a hammer, tap the punch around the entire circumference of the bearing until it completely slides out of the hub. Turn the wheel over and remove the other bearing in the same way. NOTE: It may be necessary to tap on the punch sideways at first to knock the center aluminum sleeve off center so that you are able to get the punch on the edge of the bearing. 7 Clean areas where bearings will be inserted back into hub and apply a thin coat of grease around the machined hub surface. Tap the bearing on the snap ring (if used, either side if not) side of the hub into the machined hub surface, making sure to keep it square with the hub as it goes in and only tap on the outer race of the bearing. Once you get the bearing flush with the outer edge of the hub, use a socket or piece of pipe that is just smaller than the outside diameter of the bearing to finish tapping the bearing into the hub. (Fig. 5) 8 Install the bearing retainer snap ring (if used) into the groove machined in the hub, and then tap the seal in place over the snap ring with the spring on the seal in towards the center of the wheel. Tap in the aluminum spacer in the center of the seal.

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KTM Rear Wheel Bearing Installation and REMOVAL

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Filed Under (KTM) by admin on 23-01-2012

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1 Insert a long punch (with a good square edge) into the center of the aluminum wheel bearing spacers and push up against the inner edge of the spacer on the opposite side of the wheel (Fig. 1). 2 Using a hammer, tap the punch around the entire circumference of the spacer until it completely slides out of the bearing (Fig. 2). Turn the wheel over and remove the other spacer in the same way. 3 Use a long screwdriver or narrow pry bar and pry the seals out of each side of the wheel (Fig. 3). 4 Using snap ring pliers, remove the bearing retaining snap ring from either the disc or sprocket side of the wheel (Fig. 4). 5 Insert a long punch (with a good square edge) into the center of the wheel bearing, and push up against the inner edge of the bearing on the opposite side of the wheel. Using a hammer, tap the punch around the entire circumference of the bearing until it completely slides out of the hub. Turn the wheel over and remove the other bearing in the same way. NOTE: It may be necessary to tap on the punch sideways at first to knock the center aluminum sleeve off center so that you are able to get the punch on the edge of the bearing. 6 Clean areas where bearings will be inserted back into hub and apply a thin coat of grease around the machined hub surface. Tap the bearing on the snap ring side of the hub into the machined hub surface, making sure to keep it square with the hub as it goes in and only tap on the outer race of the bearing. Once you get the bearing flush with the outer edge of the hub, use a socket or piece of pipe that is just smaller than the outside diameter of the bearing to finish tapping the bearing into the hub. (Fig. 5)

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HARLEY DAVIDSON SOFTAIL CHROME REAR AXLE ADJUSTER AND COVER KIT INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 16-04-2011

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INSTALLATION Perform this installation when the engine is cool. Working on or near the exhaust system when the engine is hot could result in severe burns. (00311a) 1. Block the motorcycle underneath the frame so the weight of the vehicle is off of the rear wheel, but do not raise the rear wheel off the ground. 2. Some models require loosening or removal of the muffler or mufflers in order to remove the rear axle. See the EXHAUST SYSTEM REMOVAL section of the Service Manual. Remove the saddlebags if desired for extra working clearance. See SADDLEBAG REMOVAL in the Service Manual. 3. See Figure 1. Remove the original axle adjustment bolts (1) and jam nuts (2) from both sides of the motorcycle and discard. NOTE On a bike that has been previously serviced, ensure that the axle has not been removed and re-installed from the left side (with the castle nut to the right of the wheel). If it has, the axle MUST be inserted from the right side of the motorcycle. 4. Remove the retaining pin (7), castle nut (5) and washer (4) from the left side of the axle (6). Discard the washer, but save the pin and nut for later re-assembly. 5 7 1 4 6 2 3 is04101 1. Axle adjust bolt 2. Jam nut 3. Axle adjuster collar 4. Washer 5. Castle nut 6. Rear axle 7. Retaining pin Figure 1. Rear Axle Hardware (Left Side Shown) 5. Tap the axle toward the right side of the motorcycle and remove. The belt adjuster collars (3) will fall loose as the axle is removed. The collars can be discarded. The wheel bearing spacers may also fall loose or be dislodged. Be sure to return these to their original position on the vehicle (short spacer on the right side, long spacer on the left). 6. Inspect axle components for damage or excessive wear, and replace as required

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HARLEY DAVIDSON FRONT AGITATOR WHEELS INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 06-03-2011

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Recommended Additional Parts The following Harley-Davidson Genuine Motor Accessories are recommended for proper maintenance and cleaning: •Harley® Bright™ Chrome Cleaner (94683-99) •Harley® Glaze™ Polish and Sealant (99701-84) •Harley®Wheel and Spoke Brush (43078-99) •Harley-Davidson®Wheel and Tire Cleaner (94658-98) Kit Contents See Figure 1 and the Service Parts Tables. INSTALLATION 1. Remove existing front wheel assembly. Save axle, axle nut, brake disc and wheel spacers for kit installation. See the service manual. Do not re-use brake disc/rotor screws. Re-using these screws can result in torque loss and damage to brake components. (00319c) 2. See Figure 1. Install valve stem assembly (D) on wheel. See the service manual. 3. Assemble wheel installation kit components and brake disc(s) to wheel, using the appropriate service parts table. See the service manual. 4. Install primary bearing with a Wheel Bearing Remover and Installer. See the service manual. The left side of the wheel has DOT cast in the wheel to indicate the primary side of the wheel. 5. Install wheel spacers (previously removed). 6. Install front wheel (1) and stock axle. See the service manual. MAINTENANCE AND CLEANING Chrome parts must be maintained regularly so they keep their original shine and luster. 1. Clean heavily-soiled wheel surfaces using Harley-Davidson Wheel and Tire Cleaner, applied with Harley Wheel and Spoke Brush. 2. Thoroughly clean chrome with a good quality chrome cleaner, such as Harley Bright Chrome Cleaner. 3. After cleaning and polishing, seal the finish with a good quality sealer, such as Harley Glaze Polish and Sealant

INSTRUCTIONS ON HOW TO R & R YOUR Swingarm

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Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 12-12-2010

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• Upgrade Your Pre- 2002 FL Or FXR Rear Fork & Get Rid Of The Crappy & Dangerous (Cleve Blocks) & Replace Them With A Stable System. • R & R your Swing Arm, Belt Drive, Swing Arm Pivot Shaft, and Rear Wheel. The paragraphs below are a photo journey into the replacement of a FL or FXR swing arm. To upgrade the pre 2002 FL, here is a How-To on cheaply replacing the poor parts Harley stuck you with. Now – Let’s Get Er’ Done • Pre- 2002 had weak swing arms and are known to fail. The cleve blocks are the cause of “Rear Steer” or “Rear Fork Deflection”. Harley came up with a patch in 2002, using bearings. Because the pre 2002 transmissions have a 5/8″ mounting hole for the 5/8″ swing arm pivot shaft, a conversion unit has been made. No transmission removal for boring is necessary. Under no circumstances, do I recommend drilling out the transmission case with a hand drill. The drill will “wander” (drift)! • Solution: Go to either a trike shop/manufacturer, e-Bay, or shop and buy a new style swingarm. Harley made an additional upgrade in 2007, try and buy this type 2007 & above). If upgrading to a 2008, Harley use 25mm (smaller than 1″) axles & wheel bearings, you will have to use 25mm bearings. With that said, let’s get on with it. • In the case of a 2007 swingarm; buy and do not pay over $40 for the swing arm and axle. You must use the corresponding axle as a ¾” axle set-up is different (along with wheel bearings & spacers). You positively can not use a pre -2002 HD stock wheel because the wheel bearing spacer will fit into the wheel. Buy 2002 & above style wheels as they (9 spoke) are cheep. • You are going to have to either bore out your stock rear caliper bracket or better still, upgrade your whole rear brake to the new model & sell yours on e-Bay. • I recommend doing the following before hand and have it ready for installation; Remove bearings et al. from the 2002 & later swing arm via press. Bike Work: • Jack up your bike using a center jack. Secure the bike so it will not fall over. You can also use a motorcycle jack. I use a motorcycle dolly

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