HARLEY DAVIDSON XL FRONT END LOWERING KIT REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 23-02-2011

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REMOVAL Remove Right and Left Forks 1. Place suitable blocking under frame to raise front wheel several inches off the floor. For best results, use a hydraulic center stand on a level surface. 2. See the service manual and remove front wheel, fender and brake caliper. 3. Spray glass cleaner on the fork tube between upper and lower fork bracket to lubricate. 1 2 2 is04050 1. Fork cap bolt 2. Pinch bolt Figure 1. Loosen Pinch Bolt 3 2 1 is00154 1. Vise grip 2. Rubber pad 3. Plastic knob Figure 2. Fork Tube Holder (HD-41177) 4. See Figure 1. While holding the fork slider to prevent the fork from dropping, loosen pinch screws (2). 5. Remove fork tube by sliding the fork tube down and out of the upper and lower fork brackets. 6. Repeat Steps 3-5 to remove opposite fork. -J04713 1 of 5
7. Move forks to bench area. Place suitable drain pan on floor beneath vise. Disassemble Left and Right Fork

Honda GL1800 EZ-Steer Installation Manual

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 16-02-2011

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1. Use the Parts Checklist included with your hardware to verify the contents of the box. 2. Remove the front wheel, forks and triple clamps as shown in the Honda Shop Manual. 3. Remove the fork tube caps and install the new 1-inch extensions using the new “O” rings provided in your kit. 4. Install the new Triple Clamps. Remember to grease the new upper and lower steering bearings. The signal-cancel device under the lower triple clamp does not require special re-mounting hardware. 5. Install the forks into the new Triple Clamps. Check the steering lock action by turning the forks fully in both directions. 6. Reinstall the fender and wheel assembly. Be sure the brake hoses are routed to allow full travel of the forks.

HARLEY DAVIDSON CHROME SPROCKET HARDWARE KIT INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 14-02-2011

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INSTALLATION For 1991 through 1996 XL with Laced Wheels For 1993 through 1996 Softail with Laced Wheels For 1993 through 1997 Dyna with Laced Wheels 1. Remove the rear wheel. Refer to REAR WHEEL REMOVAL in the Service Manual. 2. Remove all stock sprocket mounting screws, washers and locknuts. 3. Place a new chrome washer onto the threads of each new chrome screw from the kit. Install the sprocket onto the wheel. 4. See Figure 1. Obtain new original equipment locknuts and install on the screws. See Figure 2. Tighten all screws in the sequence shown to 45-55 ft-lbs (61-75 Nm). 5. Install the rear wheel. See REAR WHEEL INSTALLATION in the service manual. Verify the correct axle alignment and check belt deflection per service manual instructions INSTALLATION For 1997 and Later XL with Laced Wheels For 1997 through 1999 Softail with Laced Wheels For 1998 through 1999 Dyna with Laced Wheels For ALL Models with Cast Wheels 1. Remove the rear wheel. Refer to REAR WHEEL REMOVAL in the Service Manual. 2. Remove all stock sprocket mounting screws and washers. 3. Place a new chrome washer onto the threads of each new chrome screw from the kit. Apply 2-3 drops of Loctite 262 (red) to the screw threads, and install the sprocket onto the wheel. Tighten all sprocket screws finger-tight. 4. See Figure 3. Tighten the bolts in the sequence shown to 23 ft-lbs (31.2 Nm). NOTE If 23 ft-lbs (31.2 Nm) is reached before screw is fully seated, remove screw and examine screw and wheel for thread damage. Replace screw or wheel if threads are damaged. 5. After all screws have been tightened to 23 ft-lbs (31.2 Nm), mark a straight line, with a grease pencil, on all sprocket screw heads continuing the line over onto the sprocket. 1 4 2 5 3 30 is04009 Figure 3. Tightening Sequence (Later Laced Wheels and All Cast Wheels) 6. Mark a second line at 30° clockwise from the lines on the sprocket at each screw. NOTE For best results, use Snap-on Torque Angle Gauge TA360 or equivalent. 7. Using the marks as a guide, and using the tightening sequence shown in Figure 3+, turn each screw an additional 1/12 turn or 30° clockwise. 8. Install the rear wheel. See REAR WHEEL INSTALLATION in the service manual. Verify the correct axle alignment and check belt deflection per service manual instructions

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HARLEY DAVIDSON CHROME HANDLEBAR CLAMP BOLT KITS INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Harley Davidson) by admin on 02-02-2011

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INSTALLATION Improperly aligned handlebars can contact the fuel tank when turned to the left or right. Contact with the fuel tank can cause cosmetic damage. (00372a) NOTES Check that the handlebar is centered on the risers. To make sure that the handlebar is centered, verify that the knurled areas on the outboard side of each riser are equal. Slowly turn the front wheel to the full right fork stop and then the full left fork stop to be sure the handlebar does not contact the fuel tank. If contact with the fuel tank occurs or the handlebars are not properly centered, see Figure 1. Slightly loosen the four upper clamp screws, and center the handlebar or raise the handlebar angle as necessary until proper clearance is obtained, then temporarily snug the screws, but do not fully tighten. 4 1 2 3 4 is00868 1. Upper clamp 2. Screw (4) 3. Handlebar 4. Handlebar risers (2) Figure 1. Handlebar Clamp Hardware 1. Remove and discard screws (2) that fasten upper clamps (1) to handlebar risers (4). Save washers under screw head for later use. 2. For Kit 94453-04: Select new chrome screws from the kit that match the length of the screws removed. For all other Kits: Select new chrome screws from the kit. 3. Slide washers previously removed onto screws, and thread screws through the upper clamps into risers. -J03586 1 of 2 4. If handlebar adjustments were made, snug screws but do not fully tighten. a. The bottom surfaces of upper clamps are offset, creating a gap between the clamp and riser on one side. b. Tighten clamps so the gaps appear to the rear of the handlebar, then tighten screw to 12-15 ft-lbs (16.3- 20.3 Nm). 5. If handlebar adjustments were not made, tighten screws to 12-15 ft-lbs (16.3-20.3 Nm). SERVICE PARTS

Basic Rotor Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 10-01-2011

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1. Take wheel off the bike. 2. Install rotors offset on the wheel. (refer to pictures below) 3. Replace the wheel on the bike keeping the axle, pinch bolts, and caliper bolts loose. 4. Begin to pump the brakes, applying the pads, making contact with the rotors. 5. While maintaining pressure, tighten the axle and all of the bolts. 6. This aligns the wheel, rotor, caliper, and pads to ensure optimum contact between rotor and pad. 7. Check that brake fluid level is not too high after install. 8. Make sure the wheel spins freely. 9. Bed in easily for first 100 miles.

LED SHOW LIGHTING INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIOINS

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Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 27-12-2010

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1. The kit is supplied with 4 “cluster” lights that project a round flood lighting pattern and 4 “array” lights that have a narrow fan type pattern. Determine where you would like to mount the supplied lights, switch and wiring connections. You may want to hook up one of the lights with some long jumper wires connected to the battery and hold it in various places to see what will show off your bike best. The idea is to see the light reflected off your bike and not see the light fixture. 2. Mount the lights and switch using the supplied primer and 2-sided adhesive pad. Apply the primer to the backside of the lights and switch; let it dry for 5 minutes. Remove the protector from one side of the adhesive pad and apply. Apply the primer on the motorcycle where the lights and switch will be mounted and let it dry for 5 minutes. Remove the protector from the adhesive pad and mount the lights and switch. 3. Refer to the provided wiring diagram. The wiring is color-coded and connects in parallel. All of the black wires connect together through the BLACK wire of the 2 conductor black jacketed wire (Ground Wires). All of the colored wires connect together through the RED wire of the 2 conductor black jacketed wire (Power Wires). Connections may be soldered, crimped with solderless connectors, or twisted together. 4. Measure and cut the supplied 2-conductor black-jacketed wire to the lengths that are needed to connect the lights and switch. When routing the wire from any lights that you have mounted to the front make sure you have provided enough slack at the steering head to be able to turn the front wheel full left and full right without damaging the lights or wires. Also be sure the wire is at least æ” from any exhaust pipe. 5. Join each connection and cover with the supplied heat shrink tubing. NOTE; All wire connections must be insulated. Cut a piece of the provided heat shrink tubing long enough to cover the connection completely. 6. Connect one wire from the switch to the RED wire of the lights with one of the supplied blue butt connectors. Connect the second wire from the switch to one wire from the fuse holder with the other blue butt connector. Connect the second wire from the fuse holder to the positive (+) battery terminal using one of the supplied fork connectors. 7. Connect the BLACK wire of the lights using the other fork connector to a ground connection. (The negative (-) battery terminal or motorcycle frame.) 8. Secure all loose wires by using the supplied cable ties. Check the front wheel again to be sure there is enough wire slack for turning.

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Honda CBR 900 RR Öhlins shock absorber kit Mounting instructions

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Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 14-12-2010

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Put the motorcycle on a stand so the rear wheel is clear of the ground. Make sure it’s steadily fixed so it will not fall over. 2 Remove the seat (2 screws from below) and loosen the six screws (four rear and two front) holding the fuel tank. The tank side covers must be loosened as well. 5 Remove the lower shock absorber mounting bolt from the triangle link. 6 Lower the shock absorber and turn it slightly so that it is possible to remove the horizontal attachment bolt. 7 Lift the rear end of the motorcycle enough to make removal of the shock absorber rearwards possible. 8 Attach the Öhlins shock absorber in reverse or- der. 9 Mount the upper and lower shock absorber bolts. 10 Attach the pre-load adjuster to the rear foot rest bracket on the right side of the motorcycle

Fold Up, Stand UpT, Motorsports Trailers OPERATIONS MANUAL

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Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 04-12-2010

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1. Your vehicle must have an approved ball hitch to carry the maximum approved weight for your loaded trailer. (Pg. 4 ) 2. For the Single, Dual and 3Rail/Combo Stand UpTMtransports, the top of the all hitch must rise to approximately 21″ above the ground with the vehicle loaded (Pg. 4 ). For the ATV / Utility transport, correct ball height is approximately 15″ from the ground. For all trailers, the critical factor is that the trailer bed must be level in tow. 3. Use a Class 2 or greater trailer hitch (Pg. 4 ). 4. Repack wheel bearings after the first 1,000 miles and every 2,000 miles thereafter. You do not need to remove the hub to re-grease using the easy access Zerk Fitting on each wheel. (Pg. 3 ). 5. You can carry either one or two motorcycles on a Dual Big Bike Kendon Stand UpTM Transport. The trailer suspension is designed to ride especially well even if you are carrying only one bike on either the left or right rail (Pg. 3 ). 6. Tie-Downs – use only Kendon locking ratchet tie-down straps (Pg. 6 ) 7. Front Tie-DownProcedure. Use two ratchet tie-down straps on the front forks, compressing suspension to 75% of travel (See Pg. 7 & Tie- Down diagram). Do not overtighten straps. Correct tie-down pressure will leave a small amount of room for compression in the motorcycle suspension and will ensure that the front-end of the motorcycle will not bounce up and down as the trailer goes over bumps during transport. 8. Rear Tie-DownProcedure. Use two ratchet tie-down straps on the rear of the motorcycle connecting the frame of the motorcycle to the tie- down point in front of the hinge on the bed of the trailer (Pg. 7 ) 9. Walk the motorcycle onto the trailer – do NOT ride up (Pg. 7 )

THE PREMIER MOTORCYCLE CHOCK

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Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 01-12-2010

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3 Figure B General Operating Instructions (Figure B)  Open the shoe carriage mechanism by placing your foot on the right or left cocking lever. This cocking movement is similar to kick-starting a motorcycle as the movement is down and back in an arc. This takes a good heavy push with your foot. Once cocked, the shoe is now open and flat on the WHEELDOCK floor and will remain open until you pull your bike into the WHEELDOCK and depress the Trip Lever. NOTE: Always keep one hand on the bike to keep it from rolling back when the carriage is opened. We recommend leaving the bike in first gear so it cannot roll backwards when the shoe carriage is opened.  When you ride into the WHEELDOCK, pull up to the forward stop and press the Trip Lever with your foot. This releases the air spring and clamps the wheel. TIP: Be sure to leave your motorcycle in first gear.  At this point, your motorcycle is secure against tipping and you can safely get off the bike.  Follow the strapping instructions below before hauling your bike.

Motorcycle Derived Steering / Suspension Systems

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Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 29-11-2010

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1. Examine the handlebars and fork yokes. 2. Turn the steering from lock to lock with the steered wheel both on a turning plate and clear of the ground. Cont’d Reason for Rejection 1. A handlebar or fork yoke a. deformed b. fractured c. cracked d. excessively corroded e. clamps not tight, or any bolt loose or missing f. handgrips missing or not secure to handlebars g. handlebar flexible mounting excessively deteriorated. 2. a. any fouling or restriction of the free movement of the steering from lock to lock b. handlebar grip/s or handlebar mounted control/s have no clearance with any other part of the machine when the steering is placed on either full lock c. steering movement excessively stiff or rough Reason for Rejection 5 does not apply to fork gaiters or shrouds. . Cont’d Method of Inspection 3. Examine the steering damper. 4. Examine the steering head bearings. 5. Examine the front fork assembly. Cont’d Reason for Rejection 3. A steering damper a. insecure b. ineffective c. impairing the steering action. 4. Excessive free play in the steering head bearings. 5. A fork assembly component which is a. missing b. loose c. cracked d. excessively bent, misaligned, corroded, worn, or has excessive free play between the sliding members of the forks, the pivot bearings or bushes e. restricted in operation f. fouling