YAMAHA XJR1300 SERVICE MANUAL

0

Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 21-11-2010

download
LOCK WASHERS/PLATES AND COTTER PINS After removal, replace all lock washers/plates 1 and cotter pins. After the bolt or nut has been tightened to specification, bend the lock washer tabs and the cotter pin ends along a flat of the bolt or nut. EAS00024 BEARINGS AND OIL SEALS 1. Install bearings and oil seals so that the manufacturer’s marks or numbers are visible. When installing oil seals, lubricate the oil seal lips with a light coat of lithium soap base grease. Oil bearings liberally when installing, if appropriate. 1 Oil seal Do not spin the bearing with compressed air because this will damage the bearing sur- faces. 1 Bearing EAS00025 CIRCLIPS Before reassembly, check all circlips carefully and replace damaged or distorted circlips. Always replace piston pin clips after one use. When installing a circlip 1, make sure that the sharp-edged corner 2 is positioned opposite the thrust 3 that the circlip receives. 4 Shaft 1-4 GEN INFO CHECKING THE CONNECTIONS NOTE: NOTE: NOTE: EAS00026 CHECKING THE CONNECTIONS Check the leads, couplers, and connectors for stains, rust, moisture, etc. 1. Disconnect: lead coupler connector 2. Check: lead coupler connector Moisture Dry with an air blower. Rust/stains Connect and disconnect several times. 3. Check: all connections Loose connection Connect properly. If the pin 1 on the terminal is flattened, bend it up. 4. Connect: lead coupler connector Make sure that all connections are tight. 5. Check: continuity (with a pocket tester) Pocket tester 90890-03112 If there is no continuity, clean the terminals. When checking the wire harness, perform steps (1) to (3). As a quick remedy, use a contact revitalizer available at most part stores

2001 YAMAHA TDM900 SERVICE MANUAL

0

Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 20-11-2010

download
CHECKING THE SWITCHES ELEC EAS00731 ELECTRICAL CHECKING THE SWITCHES Check each switch for damage or wear, proper connections, and also for continuity between the terminals. Refer to “CHECKING SWITCH CONTINUITY”. Damage/wear Repair or replace. Improperly connected Properly connect. Incorrect continuity reading Replace the switch. -3- ELECTRIC STARTING SYSTEM ELEC EAS00755 ELECTRIC STARTING SYSTEM CIRCUIT DIAGRAM -4- ELECTRIC STARTING SYSTEM ELEC 4 Main fuse 5 Battery 7 Starter relay 8 Starter motor 9 Main switch 12 Starting circuit cut-off relay 13 Sidestand switch 14 Neutral switch 49 Clutch switch 59 Engine stop switch 60 Start switch 61 Ignition fuse -5- ELECTRIC STARTING SYSTEM ELEC EAS00756 STARTING CIRCUIT CUT-OFF SYSTEM OPERATION If the engine stop switch is set to “” and the main switch is set to “ON” (both switches are closed), the starter motor can only operate if at least one of the following conditions is met: The transmission is in neutral (the neutral switch is closed). The clutch lever is pulled to the handlebar (the clutch switch is closed) and the side- stand is up (the sidestand switch is closed). The starting circuit cut-off relay prevents the starter motor from operating when neither of these conditions has been met. In this instance, the starting circuit cut-off relay is open so current cannot reach the starter motor. When at least one of the above conditions has been met the starting circuit cut-off relay is closed and the engine can be started by pressing the starter switch. WHEN THE TRANSMISSION IS IN NEUTRAL WHEN THE SIDESTAND IS UP AND THE CLUTCH LEVER IS PULLED TO THE HANDLEBAR 4. Starting circuit cut-off relay Disconnect the starting circuit cut-off relay from the wire harness. Connect the pocket tester (Ω 1) and battery (12 V) to the starting circuit cut-off relay terminals as shown. YES NO Replace the starting circuit cut-off relay. Does the starting circuit cut-off relay have continuity between blue/white and black? EAS00759 Continuity Tester positive probe sky blue Tester negative probe blue/yellow No conti- nuity 1 2 1 3 Tester positive probe sky blue Tester negative probe black/yellow Battery positive terminal red/black Battery negative terminal black/yellow 1 2 Tester positive prove blue/white Tester negative prove black 3 4 5. Starting circuit cut-off relay (diode) Disconnect the starting circuit cut-off relay from the wire harness. Connect the pocket tester (Ω 1) to the starting circuit cut-off relay terminals as shown. Measure the starting circuit cut-off relay for continuity as follows. Tester positive probe blue/green Tester negative probe blue/yellow 4 3 Tester positive probe black/yellow Tester negative probe sky blue 2 1 Tester positive probe blue/yellow Tester negative probe sky blue 3 1 Tester positive probe blue/yellow Tester negative probe blue/green 3 4 When you switch the tester’s positive and negative probes, the readings in the above chart will be reversed. Are the testing readings correct? YES NO Replace the starting circuit cut-off relay. NOTE: EAS00760

Incoming search terms:

HI-4 DUAL FIRE MOTORCYCLE IGNITION INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

0

Filed Under (Yamaha) by admin on 09-11-2010

download
Turn ignition switch off and disconnect battery ground cable. 2. Refer to Figure 3. Remove OE ignition module and wire harness (items 1-4). You will disconnect two wires at the coil (15), a wire going to the VOES (Vacuum Operated Electrical Switch) (18), a black ground wire at the ignition module, and the 3 pin plug (20) that connects to the sensor plate (11). Refer to shop manual for locations. 3. Remove ignition cover plates and gasket (items 5- 9). This will require drilling out two rivets. The rivets will later be replaced with two supplied self- threading screws. 4. In order to remove the sensor plate cable, the cable plug (20) must be removed first. Use needle nose pliers to pull the terminals out of the plug. Then pull the cable through the exit hole at the bottom of the timing cover. 5. Note location of sensor plate (11). There is a V notch in the sensor plate used for alignment. When you install the HI-4, you should align the V notch in the same location. This should set the timing close enough to start the engine. Remove and save the two standoffs and washers (10). Remove the sensor plate (11). HI-4 INSTALLATION Refer to Figure 4. The HI-4 requires use of the OE timing rotor P/N 32402-83 (used only on 1985 and newer models). If you have an older model or are not sure, check the rotor (9) for the correct part number. For models prior to 1980, use the supplied 10-32 x ¾”bolt and washer to mount the rotor. 1. Install the HI-4 system in place of the OE breaker or sensor plate. Rotate the HI-4 about 90 degrees to give better access to the cable exit hole. Install the HI-4 first, then push the cable through the hole. On some early models it may be necessary to enlarge the wire harness exit hole in the gear cover. Align the V notch on the HI-4 same as the OE plate you removed. Use the OE standoffs to secure the HI-4. You must use lockwashers under the standoffs for proper clearance between the HI-4 and cover plate. Do not fully tighten the standoffs until the timing has been set. 2. Route the HI-4 wire harness along the frame rails up to the coil. Make sure that harness will not be chafed or burned by exhaust heat. Secure harness with tie wraps. Do not install timing cover. HI-4 HOOKUP Crimp terminals and hardware are supplied for your convenience. Use the ring terminals for coil hookup. Use male-female quick disconnects for connections to the tach and vacuum switch (VOES). Tape up any unused wires. 1. Circuit Breaker Cover Screws (2) 2. Circuit Breaker Cover 3. Circuit Breaker Cover Gasket 4. Breaker Plate Screws (2) 5. Breaker Plate Screw Lockwashers & Washers (2 each) 6. Retainer (1971 to early 1972) 7. Circuit Breaker Cam Bolt 8. Breaker Plate Assembly 9. Breaker Cam 10. Advance Assembly 11. Gear Case Cover 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 NOTE: Damage will result if the brown tach wire comes in contact with +12V. Figure 1. Harley-Davidson®OE Points System
9000-4002A REV A 3 2/05 1. Identify switched +12 volt wire and tach wire (if equipped) going to the coil. Refer to your service manual, or reconnect the battery and use a test light or voltmeter. The switched +12 volt wire will be hot when the ignition key is turned on. 2. Refer to Figure 5. Connect the HI-4 red wire and switched +12 volt wire to Coil positive. 3. The HI-4 white wire is not used and should be taped. 4. Connect the HI-4 black wire to the Coil negative terminal. 5. Connect the HI-4 green wire to the vacuum switch (Figure 3, item 18), if used. 6. Connect the HI-4 brown wire to the tach wire, if equipped with tach. Tape up if unused. 7. The HI-4 is grounded via the timing housing; a separate ground connection is not required. 8. Reconnect battery ground cable. Verify proper ground connections to the frame and engine. VOES HOOKUP The OE vacuum switch (VOES) is normally an open circuit. Above 3-5 inch-Hg vacuum, the VOES closes and grounds the vacuum input on the OE ignition module. This increases the total advance generated by the OE ignition module. Vacuum advance improves part throttle 17 16 1. Cover Screws (2) 2. Ignition Timer Cover 3. Ignition Module 4. Timer Plate Screws (2) 5. Washers (2) 6. Screws & Washers (2 each) 7. Shield 8. Sensor 9. Trigger Rotor Bolt 10. Timer Plate 11. Trigger Rotor 12. Advance Assembly 13. Gear Case Cover 14. Ignition Coil 15. Spark Plug Wires (2) 16. Ignition Coil Terminal (FX) 17. Ignition Coil Terminal (FL) 15 14 13 12 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 NOTE: Most motorcycle coils do not have terminals marked. Use either terminal for Coil+ (positive) and the other one for Coil- (negative). Warning: The HI-4 (8-1100) Dual Fire ignition will not work with 2 plugs per head, dual coil application. Damage will result if attempted. Use the HI-4 (8-2100) single fire ignition for 2 plugs per head applications

Incoming search terms:

Mikuni HSR 42/ 45 Installation Instructions

0

Filed Under (Mikuni) by admin on 31-10-2010

download
To install, remove the stock carb per Yamaha shop manual procedures. Remove stock throttle cables. Install Mikuni HSR carb into intake manifold and tighten manifold clamp. Install new HSR series throttle cables and adjust cable slack per Yamaha shop manual procedures. Hook fuel line to HSR carb and fasten clamp.* Start motorcycle and fine tune HSR carb for proper running per supplied Mikuni tuning manual. *NOTE: Mikuni HSR series carburetors are designed for gravity-feed fuel systems. You should bypass your stock fuel pump and directly feed your HSR carb right from the fuel petcock. We have noted, though, that you may not be able to get good fuel flow from your Road Star fuel tank in low-fuel situations. You may run your stock fuel pump with the HSR carb, but to do so requires the purchase and installation of an adjustable fuel pressure regulator (set at ½ to 1 lb. of pressure). These are available from most auto parts stores. The stock carb has 2 wires running to the lower rear of the float bowl , these were for a carb warmer, they are not used in this application. Unplug these wires at the main wire harness and retain with your stock carb. The Road Star ignition system uses data from the stock throttle position sensor (TPS) to manage your ignition timing. It is necessary to give the bike this information. You may do so by removing the TPS sensor from the stock carb, leaving it plugged into the main wire harness (the sensor must be fixed to a closed-throttle position), or you may locate the plug for the TPS on the main wire harness and test the leads – you will find one ground, one with .5V and one with 1.5V. Connect the 1.5V to the ground and this will give the bike the same information as stock fully closed throttle.

42MM MIKUNI FLATSLIDE CARBURETOR INSTRUCTIONS

0

Filed Under (Mikuni) by admin on 31-10-2010

download
To install, remove the stock carb per Yamaha shop manual procedures. Remove stock throttle cables. Install Mikuni HSR carb into intake manifold and tighten manifold clamp. Install new HSR series throttle cables and adjust cable slack per Yamaha shop manual procedures. Hook fuel line to HSR carb and fasten clamp.* Start motorcycle and fine tune HSR carb for proper running per supplied Mikuni tuning manual. *NOTE: Mikuni HSR series carburetors are designed for gravity-feed fuel systems. You should bypass your stock fuel pump and directly feed your HSR carb right from the fuel petcock. We have noted, though, that you may not be able to get good fuel flow from your Road Star fuel tank in low-fuel situations. You may run your stock fuel pump with the HSR carb, but to do so requires the purchase and installation of an adjustable fuel pressure regulator (set at 1/2 to 1 lb. of pressure). These are available from most auto parts stores. The stock carb has 2 wires running to the lower rear of the float bowl , these were for a carb warmer, they are not used in this application. Unplug these wires at the main wire harness and retain with your stock carb. The Road Star ignition system uses data from the stock throttle position sensor (TPS) to manage your ignition timing. It is necessary to give the bike this information. You may do so by removing the TPS sensor from the stock carb, leaving it plugged into the main wire harness (the sensor must be fixed to a closed-throttle position), or you may locate the plug for the TPS on the main wire harness and test the leads – you will find one ground, one with .5V and one with 1.5V. Connect the 1.5V to the ground and this will give the bike the same information as stock fully closed throttle. The output of the OEM fuel pump is too high and will cause fuel overflow in the HSR carb, resulting in a possible dangerous fire hazard

Incoming search terms:

WEGO II Wide-Band Exhaust Gas Oxygen Sensor Interface Installation Instructions

0

Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 27-10-2010

download
1. Turn off the ignition switch before proceeding. 2. Select a convenient mounting location for the Bosch sensor. In general, the sensor should be mounted as close to the exhaust valve or exhaust manifold as practical. When choosing a mounting location, allow several inches clearance for the sensor wire harness. The wire harness must exit straight out from the sensor. Do not loop the harness back onto the sensor body. The sensor responds to oxygen pressure. Excessive backpressure will cause a reading error. For turbocharged applications, you must mount the sensor downstream of the turbo. 3. For temporary use during dyno tuning, you can mount the Bosch wide-band sensor in place of one of the original equipment rear oxygen sensors (after the catalytic converter). You can also use a sniffer in the tailpipe. For permanent mounting, an 18 x 1.5 mm weld nut must be welded onto the exhaust pipe. After welding, run an 18 x 1.5 mm tap through the threads. Failure to clean the threads may result in sensor damage. Note that most automotive muffler shops are familiar with oxygen sensor weld nut installation on custom pipes. Do not install the sensor until after the free air calibration procedure described in the following section. Always use an anti-seize lubricant such as Permatex 133A on the sensor threads. 4. Install the WEGO II unit. The WEGO II unit should be mounted where the LCD display will be visible during testing. You can secure the WEGO II unit with Velcro tape strips. 5. Connect the Bosch sensor to the 6 pin mating connector on the WEGO II wire harness. 6. Refer to Figure 1. Connect the black WEGO II wire to frame ground using the supplied ring terminal. Try to use an existing wire harness ground location. Do not extend the WEGO II ground wire or ground the WEGO II to the battery minus terminal or to the engine. 7. Connect the red WEGO II wire to switched +12 volt power. You can usually find switched +12V power at an accessory fuse on the fuse block. You can use the supplied fuse tap and 3/16″ female crimp terminal for this purpose

Incoming search terms:

DYNA III ELECTRONIC IGNITION INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

0

Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 27-10-2010

download
1)Fasten the clamp to the electronic module using the 4-4O x 5/16 screws and lockouts provided. The damp and nuts go on the inside of the case. 2)Remove the fuel tank. Attach the module to the frame in the location selected. Cut off excess clamp material. 3)Remove an engine case or valve cover bolt and fasten the ground lug (black wire) securely to the engine. DO NOT ATTACH TO FRAME. 4])Locate the two ignition coils (they are positioned behind the left side cover on some models). There is a white wire going to the positive side of one coil that carries the switched 12 volts. A short blue/black wire then connects that point to the positive side of the other coil. Connect the separate red wire included with the kit to the spare spade terminal that is available on the positive terminal of the second coil. 5)Plug the red wire coming from the electronic module into the red wire installed in Step 4. 6)Remove the cap from the contact breaker housing. Remove the alternator cover, timing mark inspection plug, and spark plugs. 7)Remove the two screws and clips holding the points plate to the housing. Remove the screws holding the condensers to the housing. Disconnect the red and green wires where they plug into the wire harness (or coils), and remove the entire points/plate/condenser assembly. 8)Make sure the top of the housing is clean. Place the DYNA III sensor plate on the housing and orient it so that the wires exit to the rear. Place one of the original wire grommets on the front end of the plate and secure it with the screw and clip previously removed. Route the sensor cable wires through the other grommet (2 wires in the largest hole) and secure with the other screw and clip. Before tightening the plate screws, make sure the plate does not obstruct the cap screw holes. 9)Using a hex wrench in the alternator bolt, rotate the engine forward until the right hand cylinder is at top dead center on the compression stroke (D mark aligned with index mark on engine case). 10) Make sure the points cam is free of dirt and grease, and slip the DYNA III rotor over the cam Push the rotor down until it’s flange is in contact with the top of the cam. Orient the rotor so that the mark on top aligns with the line on the left (right cylinder) sensor. While pushing down on the rotor, tighten the set screws using the alien wrench supplied with the kit. 11)Rotate the engine by hand and check run-out (wobble) of rotor by watching the rotor/sensor gap. If the rotor is installed correctly, there should be no more than . 005 run-out, and it should not come in contact with either sensor. As a final check, turn the engine with the electric starter and observe the run-out. 12)Connect the three sensor cable plugs to the module receptacles, matching the red, white, and black wires. 13)Plug the remaining red and green wires onto the spade terminals where the original points connected, matching the colors

MPS Electronic Engine Kill Installation Instructions

0

Filed Under (Tips and Review) by admin on 27-10-2010

download
blue wire should be connected to the normally open pole of the shift button. The Shift Button is a momentary type switch. The common pole of the shift button should be connected to a good ground and the normally open connects to the blue wire from the Electronic Engine Kill box. Electric Air Valve – The Electric Air Valve has two wires. These wires are interchangeable. One needs an ignition switched 12 volt power source. The other needs a ground signal when the shift button is depressed. The easiest way to do this is to locate the red and blue wires in the Electronic Engine Kill wire harness. Splice one Electric Air Valve wire into the red wire and splice the other Electric Air Valve wire into the blue. Once again soldering is the preferred method but you can use schotchlok splices. Setting Kill Time – Kill time is the amount of time the engine stays dead between gears during a shift. Generally the shorter the kill time the quicker the shift. The proper kill time will vary from bike to bike. Its generally better to start with to much kill time and work your way quicker. We generally start at around 75 ms. of kill time. The Kill Time is adjusted via a small potentiometer accessed through the grommet on the front of the unit. Using a small screwdriver Carefully turn the pot clockwise to the end of its travel. This is 100 ms of kill time. Now, carefully turn the pot screw counterclockwise to the end of its travel. This is 50 ms of kill time. Halfway in between is 75 ms. The pot only goes from 7 oclock to 5 oclock so don’t force it, they break easily! Testing The System – With no air in the system start the bike. Bring the rpm up to around 3000 rpm and push the shift button. You should hear a slight hesitation in the engine each time you depress the shift button. Once you establish that you have a engine kill when pushing the shift button remove the clevis pin from the shift cylinder and extend the shaft to the end of its travel. Air up the shifter to 120 psi. We also have onboard compressor kits available to conveniently fill the air tank on the fly or high pressure CO2 systems that can shift hundreds of times without refilling. With the engine off and the key on push the shift button

Honda GL1800 Gold Wing Motorcycles Accent Panel Installation Guide

0

Filed Under (Honda) by admin on 27-10-2010

download
1. Remove left engine side cover. 2. Unplug side stand sensor harness and remove side stand. 3. Cut plug from side stand wiring, leaving approximately 1 ½” of wire on plug. Connect green wires with supplied crimp to bridge side-stand sensor. Figure 1 4. Install modified plug to electrical harness of vehicle. Figure 1 5. Replace engine side cover. 6. Remove center inner fairing panel. 7. Remove lower setting bolts (not to be re-used) from front lower fairing. It is not necessary to completely remove this panel. 8. Lift the side mirror boots and disconnect the running / turn signal wiring. Figure 2 9. With the single plug end first, feed the supplied wire harness into the fairing just below the mirrors. Note: right side wire harness is blue, left is orange. 10. Continue working the supplied harness through the fairing until the single plug end is near the lower part of the lower fairing light nacelles. 11. Connect the supplied wire harness to the vehicles harness at the mirrors and replace mirror boots and center inner fairing panel. Figure 3 12. Remove the center stand and install the supplied cross brace using the OEM bolts and spacer. Install supplied 13 spacers / washers between bracket and OEM spacer as shown. Figure 4

Ducati streetfighter HID headlight system installation Manual

0

Filed Under (Ducati) by admin on 26-10-2010

download
The installation of this kit requires the removal of the Helmholtz air box between the air intakes, located directly in front of the main air box. You will also need to run a wire from the front of the bike to the back of the bike where the battery is located. 1. Remove the seat, tail section, and fuel tank. 2. Remove the headlight assembly. 3. Replace the headlight bulb with the included HID bulb. You will need to modify the cap for the back of the headlight to allow the wires to pass through. 4. You will need to mount the Ballast, igniter, and the relay for the switch box in the area where the Helmholtz was. (see image) 5. Run the red power wire to the back of the bike and connect directly to the positive lead on the battery terminal. 6. Connect the ground wire the frame where the Helmholtz was previously bolted. 7. Plug the HID bulb into the ballast. There are 3 plugs. They can only be connected one way. 8. Connect the main wire harness to the ballast. 9. Turn the key on and turn the ignition on and check that the headlight comes on. 10. Switch on the brights to make sure this is working as well. 11. Once everything is confirmed to be working make sure the wirings are well attached won’t interfere with the fan or with any of the steering components. 12. Re-install the tank, tail section, and seat